Tuesday, February 15, 2011

South Vietnam - Saigon (Ho Chi Minh)

Motorbikes!!!! Wow! As soon as we arrived in saigon this was the first sight that struck us. There are more motorbikes that you've ever seen before and considering we've already been travelling through Asia (the motorbike capital) for four months it's amazing that this stands out! To put it into persepective there are 10 million people living in Saigon and 5 million motorbikes!!! They all seem to be on the road at once! Crossing the roads becomes an art form that we had to quickly master or die trying. The technique is to cross very slowly, no sudden movements. They will always try to avoid hitting you but they need to see you first. John became so good at this that he even escorted an elderly Vietnamese lady across the road after she had already failed and returned to the pavement.
Motorbikes, motorbikes, everywhere!
The city is hot, humid and polluted and as usual in Asia walking is not easy as pavements are usually taken over by other things - food stalls, parking bays, extension of a shop, an extra lane for motorbikes, etc. We did persevere though and managed to do some sightseeing by foot. We visitied the Notre Dame Cathedral, the city post office which is a fine example of French architecture, the Opera House, the riverfront and generally explored the streets.
We did a private half day tour to the Cu Chi Tunnels with our own guide and we made sure we left earlier than the rest of the group tours. This orked out well as it was not so busy. This was an experience not to be missed and provided a good insight into the underground war the Vietcong waged against the Americans. We saw examples of the booby traps used and I even tried a real tunnel entrance for size! John refused as there was no local crane available to extract him!
Trying a tunnell entrance for size
A nasty looking booby trap being demonstrated

We walked above ground following the trails, looking at living quarters and sunken kitchens. Then it was time to experience the tunnels for real. Even though they are widened for Westerners they are hot, stuffy and claustrophobic. John sent me through first to test them out and ensure the waywas clear for him to get through as quickly as he could. We went through two sections and their underground rooms in both. A fair few people refused to go and some turned back after 2-3metres. Amazing how the Vietnamese people braved these conditions day in day out.
John looking surprisingly at ease
We went on a 2 day, 1 night trip to the Mekong Delta the next day. It was a good trip but a little too toursity for us, although amusing. The scenery and life on the Delta was interesting but unfortunately glimpses of this were interspersed with being dragged round to honey making, local restaurants, rice wine brewing, rice paper making, coconut candy making, tropical fruit farms, etc. We enjoyed the scenic boat rides, cycling through local villages and the floating market.
A boat ride through the backwaters
The floating market
Cycling through a village
Me looking fetching in a local hat!

We also stayed overnight in a homestay which was a highlight. It was very basic accommodation with a family and we helped in the kitchen to prepare dinner. The whole family live together and they still use a fire to cook on. The guide for our trip was hilarious although I don't think he realised it, particularly when he tried to play one of the local folk instruments!
On returning to saigon for a couple more days, the city was in full preparation for the upcoming Vietnamese new year celebration, 'Tet.' Thousands of people (on motorbikes obviously) were leaving the city, mass exodus style, to spend the time with their families. It's amazing what you can carry on a motorbike - up to 4 people, luggage, food gift hampers, blossom trees, even a fridge! There were beautiful lights at night throughout the city, gifts in the shops, trees for sale and a general atmosphere of excited antricipation.


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